Naturally Unique Veining

No two pieces of stone are ever the same

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Every drop gets its own ceiling plate

This is not one fixture with arms. Each drop mounts on its own round canopy, screwed to the ceiling wherever you decide, with the chain draping from one to the next.

So the spacing is yours. Set them 12″ apart for a tight cluster over a table, or spread them three feet apart to run the length of an island. Line them up straight, stagger them, or scatter them across a ceiling — the fixture does not have an opinion.

Each drop hangs at its own height

The chain is made of individual links, so every drop shortens on its own by removing links — independently of the others. Nothing is fixed at a single length.

That is what lets you stagger the heights, which is the difference between a group of lights that looks arranged and a row that looks like it was hung in a hurry. Over a table you might drop them evenly; across an open ceiling, varying them by 4–8″ at a time gives the cluster depth. Every fixture ships with 150 cm / 59″ per drop to work with.

The mounting hardware comes with it

Canopies, plates and fixings arrive in the box — one set per drop, finished to match. Nothing here is an exposed hook or an afterthought: each canopy sits flush to the ceiling and covers its own fixing completely, so what you see from below is a clean disc and a chain, not screw heads.

Good to Know

Which Configuration Goes Where

Every drop is the same size — ∅ 7.1″ × H 5.9″. What changes is how many you hang and how much ceiling they cover. Find the row that matches your room.

How to read the last column. "Ceiling spread" is how much ceiling the canopies will occupy end to end, not the size of the fixture — on a swag light there is no fixed overall dimension, because you place the canopies yourself. Every figure here assumes 12–18″ between drops, which is the spacing at which they read as separate points rather than one mass. Pull them wider and the same count covers more ceiling.

Only the drop size is a specification. Table sizes, ceiling heights and spreads above are planning guidance based on how these fixtures are normally hung. Send us your ceiling height, your table dimensions, and where the existing wiring sits, and we will confirm a count and a layout before you order.

Thirteen Is Where We Stop Stocking. Not Making.

Ten counts cover most homes. A restaurant, a lobby, a stairwell void or a sixteen-foot table needs more — so the count is not capped at thirteen. Tell us the number and we build it.

How a Custom Order Works

• 1Send us the room. A photo of the ceiling, its height, the size of the table or island beneath it, and where the existing wiring sits. That is enough to start.
• 2We come back with a count and a layout. Including the canopy positions and drop heights we would recommend — and we will tell you if a smaller number would look better, because a crowded ceiling is nobody's win.
• 3You approve, then we build. Nothing is made until you have signed off on the drawing. Custom lead time is [__ CUSTOM LEAD TIME], quoted with the drawing.

The Only Fixture You Get to Draw

A stone ring around every drop, chains that go where you put them, and a shape decided in your room rather than in a factory.

— Alabaster rings, welded chain, and a shape you draw yourself —

Differently from a normal chandelier, and this is the whole point of it.

The wiring comes out of the electrical box in your ceiling as usual. But instead of the light hanging straight down from there, the chain runs sideways across the ceiling to hooks that you screw in wherever you want, and the drops hang down from those hooks.

So you are drilling more than one hole — the box, plus one hook per drop. In exchange, you decide where every light ends up instead of being stuck with whatever spot the builder wired.

Yes, and it handles a slope better than most fixtures do. Chains hang straight down whatever angle the ceiling is, so every drop will sit perfectly upright. A fixture on a rigid rod would lean over; this one cannot.

Two things to sort out. First, the round cover plate at the ceiling — the piece that hides the wiring — is made to sit flat, so on a slope it leaves a gap on the high side. A sloped ceiling adapter fixes it: a small angled plate that goes behind the cover. Any electrician knows the part and most hardware stores stock it. Tell us your ceiling angle when you order and we will confirm what you need.

Second, remember the drops will hang at different distances from the floor if the hooks are at different heights on the slope. That can look wonderful — or accidental. Decide which you want before you drill, and measure each drop from the floor rather than from the ceiling.

Yes — this is exactly the problem a swag light solves, and it is why people buy them.

If your electrical box sits in the middle of the room but your table is off to one side, a normal chandelier leaves you with a light that hangs in the wrong place. Here you keep the wiring where it is and swag the chain across to hooks above the table. No rewiring, no electrician cutting into your ceiling, no patching and repainting.

The same applies if a beam, a vent, or a skylight sits where you would rather have the light.

A simple rule: about one drop per foot of table or island length. A 5 ft island takes five, an 8 ft table takes seven to nine. For an open room with nothing underneath, pick by how much of the ceiling you want the fixture to cover.

Then leave 12–18″ between the drops. Closer than that and they blur into one mass instead of reading as separate lights.

Yes. Every ring is cut and polished from genuine natural alabaster — not resin, not acrylic, not plastic made to look like stone.

You can tell when it arrives: real stone is cool to the touch and heavier than it looks, and every ring carries its own faint veining. On a fixture with several drops the rings will not match each other exactly. That is what real stone does, not a fault.

No. This is rated IP20, which means indoor dry rooms only — no protection against water at all, not even steam.

Dining room, kitchen, entry, bedroom, stairwell: all fine. Not a bathroom, not above a bath or shower, not a laundry, and not a porch or balcony even with a roof over it. Alabaster is also porous, so damp is bad for the stone as well as the wiring.

This matters more here than on a normal chandelier, because you are putting weight on points you chose yourself rather than on a box the builder installed.

Every hook needs to go into a joist or a proper anchor rated for the weight — never straight into bare plasterboard, which will pull out. Stone drops are heavier than they look. Mark all your hook positions first, check what is behind each one, and only then start drilling.

That drop comes off on its own. Each one hangs from its own hook and its own chain, so a single damaged piece never means sending the whole fixture back.

If anything arrives damaged, send us photos within 24 hours of delivery and we will replace it. After that we keep spares — just tell us your finish and how many drops you have.

The Complete Installation Guide

Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.

Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab