Naturally Unique Veining

No two pieces of stone are ever the same

Alabaster is a natural stone, so every piece carries its own veining and subtle variation in color. The fixture you receive may therefore differ slightly from the images shown.

Need More Heads? We'll Build Them.

The versions on this page go up to 9 MAX HEADS, which suits most rooms. It is not a limit. A cluster is simply more of the same cone on more of the same cord — so if your table is longer or your stairwell taller, tell us the count you want and we'll make it.

Good to Know

One Big Pool of Light, or Nine Small Ones

They are not the same thing, and the difference is the whole point.

A single large shade over a table gives you exactly one pool of light. It is even, it is predictable, and it flattens everything underneath it into the same brightness. Nothing is wrong with it — but nothing happens either.

A cluster does something else. Each cone throws its own defined circle, and because the shades hang at different heights those circles land at different sizes and overlap where they meet. Directly under the densest part the light is warm and layered; toward the edges it thins and softens. That is a table with depth on it rather than a table with light on it — and it is why a group of small shades reads as arranged while one large shade reads as installed.

Each cone is doing two jobs at once, which is the part alabaster makes possible. The shade is open at the base, so light leaves in a clean beam downward. But the stone is cut thin enough to pass light as well, so the cone glows along its own walls at the same time — a lit object above your head and a working pool of light below it, from one piece of stone. And because that stone is quarried rather than moulded, the veining changes from cone to cone, and one or two will always glow a little warmer than their neighbours. On a single shade you would never notice. Hung side by side, it is the first thing you see.

This is the decision that matters most, because you can change the height after installation but not the plate.

The 11.8″ plate holds the shades close together, so the group reads as one tall object. Choose it for a round table, a small entry, or a stair landing — anywhere you want height rather than width.

The 19.7″ plate spreads the same shades apart, so each one sits on its own and the light covers more table. Over a dining table this is almost always the right answer.

Model A mixes three different cone sizes in one fixture — some wider, some taller, some shorter. That is why no two drops look alike on it, and it is the most varied of the three.

Model B: [__ MODEL B — describe what makes it different]

Model C: [__ MODEL C — describe what makes it different]

All three come on either plate size, and all three hang at the same drop. Not sure? Send us a photo of the room and we'll tell you which suits it.

No — that figure is the length of cord you receive, not a height you're stuck with. Every cord shortens on its own during installation, so you can hang this tight under a 9 ft ceiling or let it fall the full length into a stairwell.

Over a dining table, the lowest shade should sit 30–36″ above the tabletop — lower than feels right at first, but nobody walks under a table. Anywhere people do walk, keep 7 ft of clearance above the floor.

Need more than 59″ for a tall entry or stairwell? Tell us your ceiling height when you order and we'll send extra cord.

Because they're cut from real stone, not moulded from resin. Alabaster comes out of the ground with its own veining, and every cone is cut from a different piece.

So one or two will glow noticeably warmer than the ones beside them, and none will look exactly like the photograph. On a single shade you'd never notice this — hung side by side it's the first thing you see. That's what real stone does, and a set that matched perfectly would have to be plastic.

Both — and that's unusual. Each cone is open at the bottom, so a clean pool of light lands on the table underneath. At the same time the stone is thin enough to pass light, so the shade itself glows.

Most fixtures do one or the other: a shade that lights the table but stays dark, or a glowing shade that throws nothing useful downward. Here one piece of stone does both.

Bulbs are included, so every shade matches from day one and there's nothing to go and buy.

But the bulbs supplied as standard don't dim. If you want to dim it — and over a dining table most people eventually do — swap them for dimmable E12 or E14 bulbs in every socket, not just some, and pair them with a dimmer switch. Worth mentioning to your electrician: add up the wattage of all the bulbs together and check the dimmer is rated for that total.

Not all level. The cords arrive cut to different lengths on purpose — a cluster hung at one height looks like an accident, while staggered heights look like a decision.

Hang them all long first, look at the group as a whole, then shorten one cord at a time. And measure from the floor or the tabletop, not from the ceiling — that's what your eye actually reads.

A soft dry cloth on the stone, working from the highest shade down. Keep water off the shades — alabaster is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that won't buff out.

No sprays, no polish, nothing abrasive. The metal plate can take a barely damp cloth followed by a dry one. Switch off and let the bulbs cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

The Complete Installation Guide

Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.

Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab