Gathered

Cords kept short and close, the cones within a narrow band. The group reads as one vertical object rather than several separate lights.

→ Over a round table, a stair landing, or a small entry.

Spread

Cords angled outward and set to different lengths, so the cones scatter wider. The same number of shades covers far more ceiling — and more table.

→ Over a long table, an island, or an open-plan room.

Cascade

Each cord a step longer than the last, so the cones fall in a continuous diagonal. Built to be read from more than one floor at once.

→ Down a stairwell or a double-height entry.

G9 is a small bulb — buy spares when you order

Not a screw-in bulb. G9 is a two-pin capsule about the size of a fingernail that pushes into the socket. It's what keeps the metal cap this compact — but it isn't sold in every supermarket, so it's worth buying a few spares at the same time. Choose LED rather than halogen: the bulb sits enclosed inside the stone cone with little airflow, and LED runs far cooler.

About dimming

It depends entirely on the bulbs, and the ones supplied as standard don't dim. To dim it, fit dimmable G9 bulbs in every socket — not just some, as mixing types causes flicker — and pair them with a compatible dimmer. Many G9 capsules aren't dimmable, so check the packaging rather than assuming. Ask us before ordering and we'll confirm a pairing that works.

The cord is short at 19.7″ — ask for longer if you need it.

The tightest cluster — reads as one object.

The count most rooms actually want.

Where the cluster starts reading as a cascade.

Mount over the void, not over the treads.

Plan access for changing twelve bulbs before it goes up.

A Shape That Reads as Falling

Point it downward and the eye follows it down.

There is a small set of shapes the eye reads as descending before the mind has named them — a raindrop, a plumb bob, a stalactite, the tip of an icicle. What they share is a narrowing that ends in a point. Nothing about them has to move; the taper alone is enough. We read the direction and our attention travels with it.

Ondine is built from that one instinct. Two cones meet at their widest line and taper in opposite directions — a solid metal cap above, a translucent alabaster point below. The metal half stays dark and does the holding. The stone half glows and does the falling. Hung alone, it is a full stop at the end of a cord.

Multiply it and the instinct compounds. A cluster of twelve at staggered lengths stops being fixtures and becomes a movement — a slow descent of stone through a stairwell, each point a little lower than the last, none of them level with any other. From the landing you see it falling away from you; from the floor you see it falling toward you. It is the same object either way, doing the same thing, and it never quite settles.

The narrowing does something practical too. A shade that closes to a point concentrates the light instead of scattering it, so what leaves the tip is a defined warm spill rather than a general wash. And because each cone is cut from quarried alabaster, every point in a falling line glows slightly differently from the one above it — the geometry repeats, the stone never does.

It depends which version you buy, and this catches people out.

The single pendant comes on a short 19.7″ cord — right for a bedside table, too short for a dining table. The cluster versions hang 59.1″ in total, which suits a table or a stairwell.

So if you want a single drop over a dining table, ask us for a longer cord when you order. We supply longer lengths on request — but it has to be arranged before it ships, not after.

No — and this is the opposite of what most people expect. Every cluster drops the same 59.1″, whether it has three lights or twelve.

What grows is the ceiling plate: 5.9″ across on the 3-light, 15.7″ on the 12-light. So a bigger count spreads wider, not longer.

Choose by how much ceiling you want covered, not by how far down you want it to reach. If you need more length for a tall stairwell, that's a cord question — tell us your ceiling height.

3 lights for a breakfast nook or a small round table. 5 lights for a standard dining table, an entry, or a kitchen island — this is the one most rooms want. 7 or 9 for a double-height entry or an open stairwell. 12 for a three-storey void, a lobby, or a banquet table.

The single pendant is a different thing again: buy two or three of them and set the spacing yourself, rather than accepting a fixed plate.

No. The cords arrive cut to different lengths on purpose — a cluster hung level looks like an accident, staggered heights look like a decision.

Hang them all long first, stand back and look at the group as a whole, then shorten one cord at a time. Measure from the tabletop or the floor rather than from the ceiling — that's the distance your eye actually reads.

Two things at once. The stone cone narrows to a point, so the light concentrates as it comes down and lands as a defined warm pool rather than a broad wash. At the same time the alabaster itself glows along its sides.

That combination is unusual: most fixtures either light the surface below or look pretty doing nothing useful. This does both — a glowing object above, a working pool of light beneath.

G9 bulbs — and these are worth knowing about before yours arrives. A G9 isn't a screw-in bulb; it's a small two-pin capsule about the size of a fingernail that pushes into the socket. Bulbs are included.

When you buy replacements, choose LED rather than halogen: the bulb sits enclosed inside the stone with little airflow, and LED runs far cooler. Pick warm white around 2700K — cool white makes alabaster look grey. And buy a few spares: G9 isn't sold in every supermarket.

Yes, but the bulbs supplied as standard don't dim. You'd need to fit dimmable G9 bulbs in every socket — not just some, as mixing types causes flicker — and pair them with a dimmer switch.

Many G9 capsules aren't dimmable, so check the packaging rather than assuming. Ask us before ordering and we'll confirm a bulb and dimmer combination that works.

Because they're cut from real quarried stone, not moulded from resin. Every cone has its own veining, and one or two will glow a little warmer than the ones beside them.

On a single pendant you'd never notice. On a cluster, hung side by side, it's the first thing you see — and it's what tells you the stone is real. A set that matched perfectly would have to be plastic.

A soft dry cloth on the stone, working from the highest cone down. Keep water off the shades — alabaster is porous, absorbs it, and leaves a mark that won't buff out.

No sprays, no polish, nothing abrasive. The metal cap can take a barely damp cloth followed by a dry one. Switch off and let it cool first. Once or twice a year is plenty.

The Complete Installation Guide

Not sure how to wire it, how high to hang it, or whether you need an electrician? Our full guide walks through every step for US homes.

Free guide · Written for US homes · Opens in a new tab

Hourglass Duo Alabaster Pendant Lamp

Two bowls per drop · White + Gold

One bowl inverted over another, meeting at a brass bead. Light escapes upward and downward at once — where Ondine narrows to a point, this opens at both ends. The widest range in the series.

Marlen Stacked Stone Alabaster Chandelier

Discs on a rod · Gold, Black, Nickel

The rod passes straight through the stone and carries on below it — a bead on a wire rather than a shade on a cord. Barely an inch wide, so you see straight through a cluster of eleven.

Manon Alabaster Decanter Chandelier

Rounded shades · Black, White

Full, rounded shades rather than a taper — more glow, less directed beam. Choose it when you want the fixture to light the room around it rather than the surface beneath it.

Alabaster Petal Cluster Chandelier

Curved petals · [__ FINISHES]

Curved rather than conical, so the stone catches light along its edge as well as through its face. The softest silhouette of the group — closer to a flower than a fixture.